Circuit boards are very good at conducting infrared light. I think this causes the IR light to leak into the back of the camera sensor, washing out night vision images. This has previously been discussed on the forums. The solution was electrical tape, which was not working for me and was problematic in texas heat because the tape got melty.
I modified the existing open-source case and added a set of blinders, available as a Sketchup file. for forum IR blinders.skp - Google Drive
To make the blinders work, a little rectangle of tinfoil was placed into each blinder, making sure to cover the inside of the blinder that is closest to the camera board (sides toward the center of the board). So the tinfoil would stick, Elmer’s school glue stick or school glue is spread inside the blinder with a toothpick. Then, the foil inserted folded up to fit. Once inserted, the clean side of the toothpick was used to smooth the foil into the blinder, gently going over and over until the foil was perfectly smoothed and glued to the inside of the blinder.
To prevent foil edges from contacting the board, a q-tip was dipped in cheap acrylic craft paint (white liquid Elmer’s school glue would work, too.) The craft paint was daubed onto the lower and upper edges of the blinders, sealing the tinfoil in place, and creating a soft polymer lip to contact the board.
it took about 15 minutes to insert each set of blinders but now we have instantly functioning night vision by placing the H7+ into the blinder case. The case fits a bit tight, to block light, so it takes a couple of gentle insertions and removals of the H7+ board to wear the 3D printed plastic a bit and make it a quick change out.
We printed using Raise3D E2s and Geetech PETG and Geeetech PLA.
The model has an overhang for gluing a square of sponge. We used a carwashing sponge. It has a slit in it, to hold the USB cord so it won’t come loose or get pulled out during testing.
Here is a Sketchup file of the blinders. It is 1000X larger than the real size, because Sketchup is very bad at handling small details. Please resize inside your slicer software prior to printing.
I write a reminder inside each case to check that the tinfoil isn’t exposed and is safely covered with craft paint. I don’t want to short the board because there is metal contacting a component!