I think my sensor is broke.
Whatever example I try, it only works well for the first minute. After the automatic calibration I observe shadow images from previous capture that appear as frozen and added to the normal image. Also after each calibration I can see that all the dots are registered as warmer. Every calibration makes the image more saturated with higher temperatures. Until everything is the max temperature.
Is there something I can do to solve this? Or is my 200 USD ensor garbage?
Is the shutter on it broken? If so, you’d need a new shutter.
If that plastic thingy on top of the sensor is the shutter. Than yes, the tiny small plastic hinge on the side is broke. I tried to fix it put the problem remains. I wonder where I can order this spare part? I can’t find it with Digikey where I ordered my sensor.
Yeah… you need a new sensor then. There are no spare parts you can buy.
Wow, I think my LEPTON sensor worked just 30 minutes without problems.
I live in the Philippines and sending Flir sensors seems prohibited here because they think someone could use it for military purposes. For me it is just a interesting hobby. I was wondering if I could change a GPIO to send a signal to a solenoid to open or close a more robust shutter. Like this one: YALE Camera mechanical shutter camera shutter high rotating electromagnet DIY product
Of course I need to mount everything in a casing.
Probably, I don’t really have any information on what the FLIR is doing really other than the shutter needs to work.
Hello Sir, from what I understand is that this shutter is a small mechanical thingy that blocks the IR lens completely and so the calibration process can presume that all values for every point are equal and storing a new offset value in a table. I didn’t look at the source code, but this is my guess.